Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
